Peaches Hothouse

Craig Samuel, one of the owners of , was born and raised in Bed-Stuy. His career as a chef has brought him success in France, Spain, and "that island across the Hudson." Now he has come full circle and landed back on Tompkins Avenue. He calls this his “homecoming.”

Walking into Peaches Hothouse does feel like stepping back in time to some place comfortable and familiar. The all-wooden interior is encompassed by a wooden bench, with a few propped up red and white checkered pillows in the window.

On display above the shelves of liquors (the restaurant offers moonshine in a few if its drinks) are signs that say things like, "Liquor up front, poker in rear."

An apple pie is on display, encased in glass, and shining under the strings of Christmas lights. "I'm Sittin On Top of the World," a blues song from the thirties, plays lightly in the background as friends and couples drift in and out.

The gentle rhythm is already making me nostalgic for a time I can't remember. Maybe the drink in front of me is what's making me sway. It's called a Howling Wolf, made with rum and ginger beer.

I started with the Barbecue Shrimp and Crispy Grits. The grits are chilled and cut into bite-size cubes, an outer coating of crisp perfection and a soft grit center that tastes of corn and butter. They are smothered in a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce, paired with large shrimp and topped with tomato and red pepper for added sweetness.

The sauce doesn’t overpower the flavor of the grits or the shrimp, which are firm, fresh, and delicious.

"We try to get a combination of sweet, bitter, sour, and spicy flavors," Craig noted, and the Fried Greed Tomato dish is exactly that. The tomatoes are sour, crunchy, sweet, and only lightly fried, topped with thick, smoky strips of bacon and a pile of arugula leaves which freshen the dish and add a slightly sweet spice.

All this with a barbecue mayo drizzled on top creates a unexpected but wonderful flavor. 

For the main course, I had to try their famous fried chicken, prepared for all tastes -- mild, hot and extra hot. The chicken is free range, bought locally from Freebird. This is not only an improvement for the chicken itself, but also, it supports socially and environmentally conscious local businesses. Free range chicken tastes better, hands down. I couldn't tell you why, maybe you can just taste the happiness of the chicken.

The meat is moist, soft and not too fatty. The breading is flaky and thick, adding a dry crunch that compliments the chicken perfectly. The Hot fried chicken is about as spicy as I like it, with a mix of cajun spices that add to the flavor and make your lips burn just enough.

The Extra Hot is also good, once the fire in your mouth dies down. They warn you of this on the menu. And I am warning you again.

For sides, I recommend the creamed corn with bacon, which is creamy without being too thick, and the bacon adds a subtle, smoky tang that goes well with the onions and black pepper. The mashed potatoes are also a great addition to the chicken–smooth, creamy, and mild.

Craig and his business partner, Ben, came back to Bed-Stuy to bring the neighborhood the all American dishes that have been lost to processed meals and fast foods. They advertise the local farmers and businesses they support, and the fresh ingredients that make each dish that much better.

Permanently scrawled on a chalkboard in the back it says, "Good food ain't fast, and fast food ain't good." The motto speaks of a dedication to the process of cooking: The ingredients, the methods, the presentation, all leading up to a delicious end result.