Chickens Come Home To Roost

I was walking down Throop towards Kosciuszko a few weeks ago and at the corner what do I see? A chicken. Not an easily frightened child, or cowardly adult, but a full-grown, auburn-feathered fowl, leading two baby chicks in circles. Perhaps the mother hen was feeling a bit lost in the big city?

It wasn't until weeks later that I discovered that chickens are roosting all over New York City. Brooklyn is actually home to hundreds of these pleasant poultry, and a dozen of them reside at a coop on Tompkins and Lafayette. 

The garden had been there for some years. But after opening of the Hattie Carthan Community Farmers Market in 2009 and the chickens' arrival in early 2010, soon eggs were available for sale, along with fruits and vegetables. Together, with Yonnette Fleming, vice president of Hattie Carthan Gardens, and Just Food, an association that helps urban gardens grow fresh food, Carthan Market received farmer training and help with proposal writing, procuring permits, securing insurance and implementing public outreach programs.

"We're here for technical support, offering tools to help give Yonette the confidence and power to run the market successfully," said Nadia Johnson, coordinator of the Food Justice and City Farms Markets at Just Food. 

Initially, the garden was producing only fruits and vegetables. But within one year after the opening the Carthan Market, a handful of Rhode Island Reds found a new home in a hand-built coop made just for them at the Lafayette Street Market. The garden produces an immense amount of fresh eggs that are all readily available to residents.

Fleming, who comes from a long line of livestock breeders, has found herself quite comfortable nurturing the birds. She tends to the hens with great care, treating them with herbs and watching them closely. Fleming has the help of three other volunteers that actively watch the health and diet of the birds. Having the chickens at the market has allowed Fleming to offer good quality, organic eggs to the community for a much lower price than the local grocery stores.

In a short time the garden has blossomed into a space for learning, sharing and eating well. Children from surrounding schools, families & community members come to the market to buy eggs, fresh fruits and vegetables and are given the opportunity to take part in numerous classes offered. 

Still, the market has faced its share of controversy: Some people think farming doesn't belong in an urban area. Concerns about the chickens smelling or attracting rodents also have turned up some noses. And the Carthan Garden experienced a setback on Halloween when the shed was set on fire.

Just Food has set up fundraisers to help the market regain its losses.  Fleming has also been granted the privilege of closing down the street while the Market is open for business to cut down on violence and vandalizing, giving her the ability own her little domain.

"There will always be growing pains. It's hard to change habits, and some people just don't support change and diversity," said Johnson.

"Life is a mixed bag, everything isn't always rosy," said Fleming.

The homegrown space is preparing for its holiday market, which opens next Saturday, December 11th through the 18th, from noon to 8:00 pm. During the market, Fleming plans to engage the neighborhood around the garden and also introduce residents to different aspects of farming. 

"There is so much possibility for one small space," said Fleming. "I'm hoping this will educate children and remind seniors of something they may recall from their past, that this activity, even in an urban area, is normal."